With the anticipated 12 hour layover -- I approached the Nadi customer service desk near the arrivals area and they confirmed two options I was already aware of: (1) take a 6 hour boat cruise of the nearby Fiji islands - the touristy option; or, (2) take a city bus to the central market of Nadi. Of course I opted for number 2 -- getting some Fiji dollars from an ATM (worth 1/2 of an USD) and storing my backpack for a couple bucks.
I was the only white on the dilapidated bus which was full of both young students going to school and Fijians headed to work. Obtaining a recently implemented fare card and making sure the bus was headed to central market - the adventure had begun.
Before I left Portland, I was encouraged to try Fiji's national drink - Kava: a narcotic drink squeezed from crushed powdered root of a pepper plant. Wikipedia describes it as producing a state of calmness, relaxation, and well-being without diminishing cognitive performance. It goes on to say that Kava may produce an initial talkative period followed by muscle relaxation and sleepiness. Anyone who knows me, knows that it doesn't take Kava to make me talkative -- so it was difficult to personally assess any effects of the small amount I drank. It was neither objectionable nor wonderfully tasty -- more like a bland tea but then again maybe the seller went easy on his preparation for this obviously ignorant white boy.
After meandering in the market - much like central markets everywhere in SE Asia - I hopped another bus to another suggested destination: Port Denarau - the launch point for all the intra-island tourist boats surrounded by luxury accommodations. Interestingly, although I was obviously the only non-Fijian on the bus -- the destination was awash with white tourists boarding the boats. The location even had a Hard Rock Cafe - a certain tourist indicator. I spent little time there -- just long enough to figure out that there was no remaining island-hopping opportunity that would get me back by flight time.
Scam 1: As I have witnessed before in my travels, a woman at the Port giving me change when I bought a bottle of water shorted me by one dollar coin. I've encountered this scam so much in my travels that unless I am in a hurry or otherwise know it is a small coin amount, I count the change openly, like a dumb tourist in front of the cashier. That allows us both to play dumb about the attempted scam -- ah! yes of course! a mistake.
On the bus back to the central market - to connect to the bus to the airport - a noticeably non-Fijian (maybe better than just saying white!) woman boarded and sat just behind me. I engaged conversation with the comment: "So, you must either be an experienced traveler or an ex-pat resident?" She laughingly told me that she and her husband (both Kiwi's) have been traveling around the South Pacific in a 46 foot sail boat for the past 7 years. The bus trip was long enough to learn lots about the life style/choice -- like inquiring if such boaters were similar to motor home owners who tend to build community where they park/moor; whether they worried for safety from pirates/theives, etc. A fun conversation with a person with an unusual life style. She said they committed to 7 years when they started, but they already knew they'd try to do 10. It came as no surprise when she responded to my question staying in touch with family -- that they had no children.
Scam 2: Upon disembarking the bus, a Fijian encouraged me to walk with him to his "locally owned" store. I followed along only after telling him I was a backpacker and wouldn't buy anything. The short walk gave me enough time to get suspicious and he didn't disappoint my assessment when he directed me inside the well-stocked, locally made craft store. I was introduced to a man who proceeded to try to entice me to a "kava ceremony." Not only had I already experienced Kava at a regular market stall, but my memory of the similar tea scam was current from my experience in China (blogged about here) -- so I politely declined and was on my way. When I later looked up Fiji scams, sure enough - kava ceremony is one of them.
So maybe the Kava did make me extra talkative today. Another delightful conversation ensued with a Fijian woman when I gave her my bus card with a small remaining balance (I didn't need it anymore). I learned that she was a grandmother who had been a nanny for a British couple for 20 years -- even living in Britain for a while. Of course I had more questions than time allowed until her stop.
Back at the airport, I sampled Fiji beer and settled into a lounge for my 6pm departure to Melbourne.
